Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. I have been able to get it pretty Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? It won't take much! And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. Tried that and it didn't work? However, I have never found that to be the case. Good luck! would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. Earl's Mechanical Fuel Pressure GaugeI could use that for a quick troubleshooting for 1/3rd the cost of the Holley one. Try it! Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. Check fuel pressure too (. And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. PDF Sensor Diagnostics and Statuses - Holley The window you saw in the image above pops up. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. shut truck off. MSD pro billet and 6AL box )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. I'd really appreciate some help. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. The idle will not return to the set value.The second issue is the same as the first but the motor will stall out. It wont fire up. Thanks so much for reading! P.S. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com Thanks for the info Chris. Part# 538-13. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. If so remove it. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. Any suggestions? But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Short drives is fine then it'll The throttle plates are misaligned. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. Hello If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. A couple of those and you should feel it getting better. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. I looking for your expert opinion. Though they both are indications of the amount of opening through the throttle body, the TPS is the throttle opening percentage and the IAC number tells us how far the IAC stepper motor is opening the bypass air circuit.If I understand you correctly you are saying that the TPS reads somewhat normally (traveling from 9% to 100% or so) but that when you cycle the key it once again starts at 9%. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Thanks Again for your help. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Without it you are working in the dark. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. Hello Chris. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. Holley sniper, bogging/ losing power "NOW FIXED" Reducing that a bit will help. Please help. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. They are prone to be inaccurate. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Yes, you are correct. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. I will let you know what the results are. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Master Kit - Black Ceramic Finish Thanks, That is an strange situation. That is the first thing you must find. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. The distributor was loose. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. One of the signs of a vehicle with a rough idle is a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. That's what you're seeing. Good EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. I.e. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. That is what I really respect about Holley. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. It may take a few tries. This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. That is not something I'd ignore. Except at idle. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation Did your process to adjust idle to 860. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. I guess we can't have everything. Are these compatible enough? In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. If that tested out okay then I can really guess that there might be some sort of intermittent, temporary RFI. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. Any suggestions would be appreciated. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. back to trying to zero down an idle. The small rubber plug had a leak. Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black - amazon.com I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems.
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